White cars

[blueoval]

Im going to be detailing the paint on a friends late 90's early 00's Toyota Corrolla and was wonderingv if there were any particular hints I would need to make sure I get the desired result.

From what I can tell, it has never had any decent detailing done on it ever. It gets cleaned and washed often but not the way we have been taught. There are swirl marks I can see easily. Its not terrible, but its not good either. There seems to be some visible fall out that will require clay work.

Is the paint the Toyota vehicles of this era any good to work with? Will I have much trouble getting this to look like a vision of its former self?

Any tips I need to be aware of?

[Brash]

Toyota paint is like most Jap cars - it's soft.  Soft paint seems to absorb more and require clay a bit more often.  Well, on Hondas anyway.  Stick with what you know and you'll be fine mate.

Hey I just noticed that this thread is nearly 2 weeks old.  Where is everybody?

[Dream Shinez]

seems like everyone has left the building  - so to speak.
I haven't posted in here for a long time. just dont have an interest in detailing chat anymore.

[THE GLORIDA]

Matt if you dont have anything worthwhile to contribute to the thread, then dont post anything at all thanks.

Shav, sorry for delay mate, but its been hectic to say the least with the setup of the new store.

White paintworks that are heavily dulled tend to require more cutting due to the level of oxidisation levels.

Colin is right probably will be the typical soft paint work afiiliated with Jap paints.

As always start with the least amount of cutting combination you have and go on from there. Test the panels thoroughly after the wash and clay process has been completed.

Let us know how you go mate.

Sorry again for the delay in response.

Joe.

[Brash]

You're just slack Joe!   Nah mate, understand things have been busy.

You said test the panels, how would he go about that?

And probably more importantly, have you already done it Shav?

[THE GLORIDA]

If you know you are going to do the car. Then the day before or on the day of the job work on area that appears to be mostly damaged.

Just pick spots say off the bonnet and try certain cutting compounds with a variety of pads to determine which combination will work the best, and of course take the least amount of time to get the finish you are after.

From that you can determine the time required and cost in product to finish the job.

Yeah Shav prob already done the car lol

[Brash]

Attacking it like that's a good idea, I wouldn't have thought of that.

[blueoval]

wow, a response!!!!

LOL, just kidding fellas. Nah I havent done the car yet. Im waiting for my friend to have some free time to not be using it.

I was thinking of doing this process:

Style Magic
Clay Bar
2 passes with Knockout using Orange pad (depends on if it needs it)
2 passes with Micro using orange pad
1 pass with Pro Polish using white pad
1 pass with Pro polish using black pad
Aussie Gold

I'll see how that goes.  Any comments?

[THE GLORIDA]

Sounds like a good and tiring plan. : )

Like you said just depends the current paint condition of the car, as to what steps you need to do.

Well as always Shav post up the results after completion.

[Brash]

Yeh def let us know how it turns out. 

[Mr.G]

Shav if you have Amigo handy, try some of this, i had this red bucket of sh*t in the workshop a few weeks ago (it was a pale pink colour), and i told him it required a cut and polish. However all he wanted was a hand polish.

Well i tried Micro by hand - no real improvement
Driven Auto - slight improvement, but it was so hard to remove due to the paint practically eating the polish
Then i thought id give my favourite polish Amigo a go and suprise, suprise it worked wonders

The car turned out bright red, still a bucket of sh*t though lol

As ive stated in other posts Amigo is fantastic because it is so versatile, its a glaze, a filler and also a paint cleanser, and it is so easy to work with.

So anyways if your having dramas with the car, give amigo a go, it could save you a shoulder reconstruction lol.

[blueoval]

This sounds good Rob. I might come past and grab a bottle soon not just for this car but also to add to my collection. Can you also give me a price on a bottle of Menzerna Final Finish too. I was impressed with what that did for Wiggys car prior to using Micro.

[Mr.G]

No worries Shav. Which Menzerna Final finish are you after, 106ff or 85 rd.
We use 106ff a fair bit, and its great for removing light swirls, we use this as a second step on our stage twos.

[blueoval]

I was using the 85RD on wiggys mums car and it worked well. But I reckon Id like to try the 106FF if I can as I have some deeper swirls to get out. Plus I think it will work well on the toyota Im working on this weekend.

[Dream Shinez]

Hi Shav

106FF has more correction ability and a wet like finish. 85RD is finer and glossier (more clarity than 106)
With a rotary, filling of some defects and hiding of holograms usually occurs. with a DA or random orbital however, no heat or hardly any is generated thus the filling may not happen.

Do a prepsol wipedown to check each worked area